How to plant bare-root trees and hedging
Bare-root trees and hedging are planted while they're dormant, roughly from November to March, whenever the ground isn't frozen or waterlogged. Soak the roots, dig a wide, shallow hole, plant at the same depth the plant grew in the field, firm in, water well and mulch. Do that, and your new trees and hedges will settle in over winter and grow away strongly in spring.
Why bare root is worth it
Bare-root plants are grown in open ground, lifted in winter when they're dormant and sold without a pot or any compost. That makes them lighter, easier to transport and usually much better value than the same plants in containers, which is why they're the natural choice for a new hedge or a run of trees. There's no plastic pot to deal with, either.
They also tend to establish beautifully. Planted while dormant, their roots go straight into your soil and start growing as soon as conditions allow, rather than circling round in a pot. By the time the leaves break in spring, the plant is already getting on with things.
When to plant
The bare-root season usually runs from November to March, depending on the weather and when the nursery can lift. Earlier in the season is ideal, because the soil still holds some warmth and the roots have longer to grow before spring. That said, any mild spell through winter is fine. The only times to hold off are when the ground is frozen solid or so wet it sticks to your boots.
If your plants arrive and you can't plant straight away, keep the roots damp and out of the wind. For a few days, a bucket of water or a bag in a cool shed is fine. For longer, "heel them in": dig a shallow trench, lay the plants in at an angle and cover the roots with soil until you're ready.
How to plant a bare-root tree
Soak the roots. Stand the roots in a bucket of water for an hour or two before planting. Never let them dry out, even for a few minutes on a windy day.
Dig a wide, shallow hole. Make it wide enough to spread the roots out comfortably, but only as deep as the roots. Loosen the sides and base of the hole with a fork, especially on heavy soil.
Check the depth. Look for the soil mark on the stem, where it sat in the field, and plant at that level. Lay a cane across the hole to check. Planting too deep is one of the easiest things to get wrong, so take a moment here.
Stake if needed. Trees taller than about a metre, or in exposed spots, benefit from a short stake. Knock it in before you backfill so you don't damage the roots, and set it on the side of the prevailing wind.
Backfill and firm. Return the soil, gently jiggling the tree so soil falls between the roots, and firm it with your heel as you go.
Water and mulch. Water well, even in winter, then spread a mulch of compost, leaf mould or a peat-free soil improver around the base, keeping it clear of the stem.
How to plant a bare-root hedge
Hedging follows the same principles, just in a line. Mark out the run with string, clear any perennial weeds and dig over a strip around 60cm wide, adding some organic matter if the soil is poor. Then plant in a straight single row, or a staggered double row for a thicker, more wildlife-friendly hedge.
As a guide, a single row usually needs around three to five plants per metre, and a double staggered row around five to seven per metre. Mixed native hedges of hawthorn, field maple, hazel, blackthorn and dog rose are wonderful for birds and insects, while beech, hornbeam and yew make handsome formal hedges.
After planting, many deciduous hedging plants, such as hawthorn and blackthorn, benefit from being cut back fairly hard. It feels brave, but it encourages branching right from the base, which gives you a dense hedge rather than a row of leggy sticks. Beech and hornbeam need only a light trim of the side shoots.
Aftercare in the first year
The first growing season is the important one. Keep a circle of around a metre clear of grass and weeds around each tree, and a clear strip along a new hedge, because grass competes fiercely for water. Water deeply in dry spells from spring through to late summer, giving a good soak once or twice a week rather than a daily sprinkle. Check tree ties a couple of times a year so they don't cut into the bark as the stem thickens.
If you're starting from scratch, my guide to peat-free gardening covers soil improvers and mulches, and the October garden jobs are a good way to get the ground ready ahead of the season. At Form Plants we grow and supply trees and hedging too, so do get in touch if you're planning a planting this winter.
Bare-root planting checklist
Plant between November and March, when the ground isn't frozen or waterlogged.
Keep roots damp at all times and soak them before planting.
Dig a wide, shallow hole and plant at the original soil mark.
Stake taller trees before backfilling.
Water in well and mulch, keeping mulch off the stem.
Keep a weed-free circle around trees and water through the first summer.
Quick answers
Can I plant bare-root trees in March?
Yes, as long as the plants are still dormant and the ground is workable. Later planting simply means you'll need to be more attentive with watering through the first spring and summer.
How long can bare-root plants stay out of the ground?
Only a few days with their roots kept damp and wrapped. If you need longer, heel them into a trench of soil and they'll be happy for several weeks.
Should I add fertiliser when planting bare-root trees?
It's rarely needed. Good soil preparation and a mulch of organic matter are usually enough, and too much feed at planting can encourage soft growth before the roots are established.
